Last week a fellow spoogler posted a little video of a steel drum band dressed up like weird mushroom clowns on Facebook. The caption read ” the Fasnacht fun begins!”. Something like this happening in the streets of Berkeley would be unremarkable but in the usually staid Zurich I was very curious! I looked up “Fasnacht” and found out that it is Switzerland’s version of carnival (think Brazil and New Orleans). A Christian celebration proceeding Lent, Fasncacht incorporates many of the same rituals as those found in other countries. A week of celebration, music and parties are capped with a colorful parade. Just in time I noted that Zurich’s parade would be the on Sunday of that week. Zurich is a bit more secular/Protestant than some of the other more Catholic cites (Basel and Bern really do it up) but still let’s her hair down for the parade.

On Sunday Tyler and I bundled up against the cold and drizzle and headed out to the parade route in the center of the Old City. We had no idea what to expect but it was fun to speculate as other parade watchers began to line the Munsterbruke that connects two of the city’s grandest churches on either side of the Limmat river.

The parade began and the first group was a band of hippes! Huh? Maybe this was Berkeley after all?

Next came a gaggle of witches, the first of many. These witches wore elaborate wooden masks and carried brooms. We soon found out why they had the brooms; they also carried bags and bags of confetti and straw to throw at the spectators. After mercilessly confetti bombing people the witches would comically sweep confetti onto peoples feet or tap people on the bottom with their brooms.

Here’s what happened to me! Check out the lady at the end of the video telling me I need to wipe the confetti from my glasses. No duh, lady. I was totally covered!

The witches were part of a guild as are each parade contingency. They work on their costumes and presentations throughout the year in anticipation of carneval (German spelling) season. There were many bands of witches as well as demonically dressed guilds, politically satirical groups, marching bands and various animals. Here’s a taste:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Throughout there was much joviality and crowd interaction. Colorful confetti throwing was a major component and so was the pulling of pranks on the audience. Many a lady was kissed on the cheek (myself included!) by frightfully masked creatures, some had hats and scarfs stolen (and returned) and lots and lots of candy was thrown to the eager children lining the route.

I was most impressed by the intricate masks that called to mind folklore of old. I’m sure some of these costumes and traditions have been passed drown through many generations.

The tail end of the parade brought the South American contingents. There were representatives from Bolivia, Peru and The Dominican Republic. Those groups wore colorful national costume, danced and played music.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m so glad we found out about Fasnacht in time to enjoy the parade! Otherwise we would have missed out on a uniquely Swiss cultural celebration.

Here’s a link to my full photo album.

Now, somebody has to go clean up all that confetti!