After a cozy (if short) night’s sleep at The Draycott hotel I headed out at 7:00 to catch my train to Glasgow scheduled to leave at 7:40. I wrongly thought 40 minutes would be enough time but it turns out I had to hustle all the way, picking up tickets at one station and leaving from another. I made it to my train and found my seat with just 5 minutes to spare! Since it was my birthday, I decided to treat myself to a first class coach for the 5 hour journey so I was served a full English breakfast as I trundled through the English countryside.
As I rode I fondly remembered riding the train to Scotland with my mom, nerdily excited to be passing through York, the home of my then favorite author James Harriot of All Creatures Great and Small fame.
After changing trains in Edinburgh I finally arrived in Glasgow and made my way to the ultra hip and modern CitizenM hotel where I met up with my friend Monica.
We had early dinner reservations at a restaurant called Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery (not related to the TV show). Another grand old room, the Buttery is one of the oldest restaurants in Scotland. And yes, our host was wearing a kilt.
After dinner we had a really lovely sunset stroll through the city. Glasgow has a very distinct mixture of architectural styles from medieval, Victorian, Beaux-Arts and Art Deco.
Afterfreshening up in our room (and playing with all the cool lights and gadgets in there) we headed out to Glasgow’s premiere karaoke bar because, as you know, I just can’t get enough! I try to karaoke wherever I go. We quickly found out that Glaswegians are some of the friendliest people in the world! I don’t know if it was because Monica and I, being African Americans in Scotland, were so rare and exotic or if it was because I was killing it on the mic, or a combination of both but we had so many people who wanted to kick it with us. We stayed up late and had loads of fun. What a great way to spend my birthday!
The next day Monica and I took a little day tour. We met our small bus (there were about 15 people total) downtown and headed to Loch Lomond. You are probably familiar with the song The Bonnie Banks of Lock Lomond (I’ll take the high road and you’ll take the low …) but if you’re like me you never really knew what the song was about. Well our tour guide (who naturally, wore a kilt) told us the sad, sad truth of it. Apparently a common interpretation is that it was about two brothers, Scottish Jacobites, who were captured by the British. They were told that one of them would be set free and the other would hang and it was up to them to decide which would live. The elder brother sacrificed himself. The high road refers to the physical route to their home on Loch Lomand. The low road is the spirit world, the road of the dead. The brother who was to die would arrive in his beloved Loch Lomand first because his soul would be spirited there immediately while his brother would travel the long way through the temporal world. Our guide played us a beautifully sung rendition of the song and my face started to leak. Gah! Here are some shots from Loch Lomand and the village of Luss.
Our tour next took us to Castle Doune. If it looks familiar to you it may be because it’s a movie star! It was the primary shooting location fro Monty Python and the Holy Grail and has been featured in the Outlander series. It was also the setting for Winterfell in the first season of Game of Thrones. The audio guide to Castle Doune is narrated by Monty Python’s own Terry Jones. It was super fun and a great, majestic piece of business (the castle, not the narration. That was silly yet informative). The setting was also spectacular. I’m going to have to come back because the whole time I was there I was thinking “Tyler has GOT to come here”. The Holy Grail is one of his all time favorite movies.
We then went on to another castle, Sterling castle. Where Castle Doune was raw and untouched by time, Sterling castle had a bit of a Disneyfied vibe to it. You both enter and exit through the gift shop at this castle. Many of the chambers were redone to represent how they might have looked and there were costumed actors/docents in many of the rooms. Mary of Guise (mother to Mary Queen of Scots) had a really appalling French accent and it was all Monica and I could do to keep from having giggle fits every 5 minutes. They also had a lot of period mannequins which we had fun posing with. While we had a great time playing around Stirling castle, I’ll take my castles crumbling and haunted thank you very much.
After we got off our bus in the city center and thanked our tour guide we found ourselves in the midst of a rally in support of an independent Scotland. People everywhere were waving flags (both what would be the new Scottish flag as well as Catalonia flags as they are allies, wanting independence from Spain), had their faces painted, raised signs and sang. There was a big stage which was projected on a large screen and a man was singing The Impossible Dream in a lovely tenor voice. What a great moment to witness!
Considering our age and the late night we had previously Monica and I stayed in for the evening after getting some scrumptious fish and chips at a place called The Chippy Doon the Lane. We watched a bonkers movie, The Guest starring an unrecognizable Matthew Crowley from Down Abbey, and called it a night. It was the perfect end to a perfect birthday weekend. The next morning Monica left for an early flight and I enjoyed my last full English breakfast at the hotel before heading for my train to London and then on to Heathrow. I am so blessed to have been able to travel so much in the past few months. It was so great to see an old friend (two actually!), enjoy great food, outstanding theater and explore (or re-explore) this beautiful world. I sometimes have to pinch myself. If my mom were here she would be so thrilled and I feel as though she’s with me. Happy birthday to me, indeed!
Greetings dear bonnie,
What a fine birthday weekend, a veritable cutlural affair, complete with literary themes, theatre art , gastronomical delights, historical sites, architectual tours, fine friends to share it with, not to mention your Scottish debut on the Karaoke stage. I can imagine the faces of the croud aglow ( in Glasgow) with rapt as you sang your heart and soul. Bravo!…….I have always had a weakness for the man donned in a kilt, blowing on the bagpipe a hauntingly sweet and soul piercing tune, the ancient sound sends me. Perhaps in a past life, I was he or his bonnie. Love, Patrice